Monday October 8, 2018 - Chateauneuf du Pape and the Cote du Rhone
Marseille, France
Marseille is the second largest city in France after Paris. It is also one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the Mediterranean. On an island in the expansive bay of Marseille stands the prison of Chateau d'If made famous by the Alexandre Dumas novel "The Count of Monte Cristo." The Vieux-Port with its atmospheric buildings and wharves is the area where visitors can search for the perfect example of the local specialty bouillabaisse, a rich fish stew containing at least three, and often more varieties of local fish.
If memory serves me, believe this is also the port from which my mother, at age 6 months, sailed to America with her family in 1913.
Believe we were to go to La Joliette, France today, which would have required tenders being lowered from the ship to get us ashore. Then a berth opened up in Marseille which will allow us to walk ashore.
Today is the first event of my culinary/cultural experiences. Not certain what we're doing, but have been instructed to meet the group at 9:15 - promptly. Will have more to report later and hopefully some good photos. Although right now the skies again look threatening.
Met a dozen fellow travelers who are participating in the Ensemble group led by Eric Goldring. We piled into two vans and headed off to the beautiful wine area of the Chateauneuf du Pape which is surrounded by the Cote du Rhone. During the one hour plus ride, the skies opened up and the noise was so loud with drops pounding on the tinny roof of the van that conversation was almost impossible. We were headed to the oldest winery in the Chateauneuf du Pape - Chateau La Nerthe.
Parts of the chateau date back to the 16th Century. Though I believe the winery was established in the 1800's - not certain.
Chateau St. Roseline, a former monastery founded by a hermit in the 12th century and now one of the most prestigious and historic estates in the Cotes de Provence - named after Roseline, prioress of the abbey from 1300 - 1329. She was canonized in the 19th century and her body rests in a crystal shrine in the castle chapel.
In the 14th century, Pope John XXII created thew vineyard which was one of the first in Provence. History then graced the Chateau with a double distinction: the chapel is now a registered historical site and the terroir has been awarded the honor of "Cru Classe".
When touring in Europe, am always amazed that guides take tourists through areas where there is construction, where floors are flooded, where there are no rails, where stairways are crooked and uneven in their depth and height. We did all of this, were careful, no one was injured. My ankle got a good workout - is swollen today, but pain free. Wonderful.
Our guides were our two drivers, Eric (another Eric!) and Stefan, together with Silvie from the winery. Their English was good, but with the French accent spoken just a bit too quickly and it was difficult to get the essence of their message. Also there is the issue of my diminished hearing - will get to a solution for that on my return home!
The winery is beautiful - all mellow woods and old stone, and the aroma that always accompanies a winery takes me back to the basement on my Nonna.
In 1994, Bernard Teillaud became the owner of the castle with the goal of preserving its charm and turning it into an artistic haven. Today, Chateau St. Roseline has nearly 108 acres where 11 different grape varieties grow. Over the centuries, the estate has nearly always been passed on from mother to daughter, each giving their own feminine touch to the making of their Grand Crus.
In this wine area, Grenache is "king"! I learned that there is not only a purple (black) Grenache grape, but also a white Grenache grape. And, in the tasting of the wines, found those made with the white Grenache a feast for my palate. Mostly Grenache is used for blending, but occasionally there is a wine solely made from the Grenache grape. Usually, the largest cask in the winery is used for storage of the Grenache.
Individuals who buy this wine often leave it at the winery for storage. Storage areas have their names on brass plates (not shown here). This is especially true of some of the more expensive wines owned by high-end restaurants.
We tasted many wines, I bought six bottles to take back to the ship for a special evening or two - and in case my children are wondering - I did not join the wine club!!!
Then we were off to the Chateau des Fine Roches, for a beautiful gourmet lunch and more wines to taste. I'd just about hit my limit!! Beautiful vistas were visible from the restaurant, and by now, we had some much wished for sunshine.
After lunch there was yet another winery for tasting, but try as I might, I'd had more than enough wine. Did try a couple, but when one has had enough - - - ENOUGH!
There was a beautiful herb garden here where I wandered, and a lovely olive tree that had lots of river rock artfully placed at its base. Thought that was a beautiful way to present the tree.
On the way back to the ship in the van the rain storm re-emerged with a vengeance. The skies opened up and it was still pouring when we arrived at the ship, a long way from the gangway. Eric grabbed my six bottles and took off, we all followed trying to dodge puddles that were most like lakes. We were all soaked by the time we reached the ship, though it was good to be back "home".
Dined tonight with entertainer, Davie Howes, from Britain. There were ten at table, and I was the only American. Rest were all Brits, Aussies and Welch. Nice table, though a tiny bit stodgy. Davie will be performing tomorrow night and think he will be worth it to stay up for the 10:00 p.m. show.
Note to David: Captain just announced that because of terrible weather in St. Tropez, that stop has been cancelled for tomorrow, and we are heading straight to Corsica for a two-day stay in Ajaccio. Reason for the cancellation is that with seas this rough, tendering ashore won't be safe, and there's no guarantee that if we do get ashore, we'll be able to tender back to the ship. I only tell you, because your swim will have to re readjusted!!!!
Marseille is the second largest city in France after Paris. It is also one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the Mediterranean. On an island in the expansive bay of Marseille stands the prison of Chateau d'If made famous by the Alexandre Dumas novel "The Count of Monte Cristo." The Vieux-Port with its atmospheric buildings and wharves is the area where visitors can search for the perfect example of the local specialty bouillabaisse, a rich fish stew containing at least three, and often more varieties of local fish.
If memory serves me, believe this is also the port from which my mother, at age 6 months, sailed to America with her family in 1913.
Believe we were to go to La Joliette, France today, which would have required tenders being lowered from the ship to get us ashore. Then a berth opened up in Marseille which will allow us to walk ashore.
Today is the first event of my culinary/cultural experiences. Not certain what we're doing, but have been instructed to meet the group at 9:15 - promptly. Will have more to report later and hopefully some good photos. Although right now the skies again look threatening.
Met a dozen fellow travelers who are participating in the Ensemble group led by Eric Goldring. We piled into two vans and headed off to the beautiful wine area of the Chateauneuf du Pape which is surrounded by the Cote du Rhone. During the one hour plus ride, the skies opened up and the noise was so loud with drops pounding on the tinny roof of the van that conversation was almost impossible. We were headed to the oldest winery in the Chateauneuf du Pape - Chateau La Nerthe.
Parts of the chateau date back to the 16th Century. Though I believe the winery was established in the 1800's - not certain.
Chateau St. Roseline, a former monastery founded by a hermit in the 12th century and now one of the most prestigious and historic estates in the Cotes de Provence - named after Roseline, prioress of the abbey from 1300 - 1329. She was canonized in the 19th century and her body rests in a crystal shrine in the castle chapel.
In the 14th century, Pope John XXII created thew vineyard which was one of the first in Provence. History then graced the Chateau with a double distinction: the chapel is now a registered historical site and the terroir has been awarded the honor of "Cru Classe".
When touring in Europe, am always amazed that guides take tourists through areas where there is construction, where floors are flooded, where there are no rails, where stairways are crooked and uneven in their depth and height. We did all of this, were careful, no one was injured. My ankle got a good workout - is swollen today, but pain free. Wonderful.
Our guides were our two drivers, Eric (another Eric!) and Stefan, together with Silvie from the winery. Their English was good, but with the French accent spoken just a bit too quickly and it was difficult to get the essence of their message. Also there is the issue of my diminished hearing - will get to a solution for that on my return home!
The winery is beautiful - all mellow woods and old stone, and the aroma that always accompanies a winery takes me back to the basement on my Nonna.
In 1994, Bernard Teillaud became the owner of the castle with the goal of preserving its charm and turning it into an artistic haven. Today, Chateau St. Roseline has nearly 108 acres where 11 different grape varieties grow. Over the centuries, the estate has nearly always been passed on from mother to daughter, each giving their own feminine touch to the making of their Grand Crus.
In this wine area, Grenache is "king"! I learned that there is not only a purple (black) Grenache grape, but also a white Grenache grape. And, in the tasting of the wines, found those made with the white Grenache a feast for my palate. Mostly Grenache is used for blending, but occasionally there is a wine solely made from the Grenache grape. Usually, the largest cask in the winery is used for storage of the Grenache.
Individuals who buy this wine often leave it at the winery for storage. Storage areas have their names on brass plates (not shown here). This is especially true of some of the more expensive wines owned by high-end restaurants.
We tasted many wines, I bought six bottles to take back to the ship for a special evening or two - and in case my children are wondering - I did not join the wine club!!!
Then we were off to the Chateau des Fine Roches, for a beautiful gourmet lunch and more wines to taste. I'd just about hit my limit!! Beautiful vistas were visible from the restaurant, and by now, we had some much wished for sunshine.
After lunch there was yet another winery for tasting, but try as I might, I'd had more than enough wine. Did try a couple, but when one has had enough - - - ENOUGH!
There was a beautiful herb garden here where I wandered, and a lovely olive tree that had lots of river rock artfully placed at its base. Thought that was a beautiful way to present the tree.
On the way back to the ship in the van the rain storm re-emerged with a vengeance. The skies opened up and it was still pouring when we arrived at the ship, a long way from the gangway. Eric grabbed my six bottles and took off, we all followed trying to dodge puddles that were most like lakes. We were all soaked by the time we reached the ship, though it was good to be back "home".
Dined tonight with entertainer, Davie Howes, from Britain. There were ten at table, and I was the only American. Rest were all Brits, Aussies and Welch. Nice table, though a tiny bit stodgy. Davie will be performing tomorrow night and think he will be worth it to stay up for the 10:00 p.m. show.
Note to David: Captain just announced that because of terrible weather in St. Tropez, that stop has been cancelled for tomorrow, and we are heading straight to Corsica for a two-day stay in Ajaccio. Reason for the cancellation is that with seas this rough, tendering ashore won't be safe, and there's no guarantee that if we do get ashore, we'll be able to tender back to the ship. I only tell you, because your swim will have to re readjusted!!!!
Comments
Post a Comment