Monday, October 15, 2018 - Siracusa (Syracuse), Sicily
More than any other city, Siracusa encapsulates Sicily's timeless beauty. Ancient Greek ruins rise out of lush citrus orchards, cafe tables spill onto dazzling baroque piazzas, and honey-hued medieval lanes lead down to the sparkling blue sea. It's difficult to imagine now but in its heyday this was the largest city in the ancient world, bigger even than Athens and Corinth.
Its "Once Upon a Time" begins in 734 BC, when Corinthian colonists landed on the island of Ortygia and founded the settlement, setting up the mainland city four years later.
Almost three millennia later, the ruins of that then-new city constitute the Parco Archeologico, della Neapolis, one of Sicily's greatest archaeological sites. Across the water from the mainland, Ortygia remains the city's most beautiful corner, a casually chic, eclectic marvel with an ever-growing legion of fans.
However wonderful that may be, we had other plans today, and what a day it was. Our small group met with Chef David, who is a Seabourn Executive Chef. He goes from ship to ship making certain that the Seabourn tradition is upheld and fixing it when things fall short. We learned today that he will also be on our cruise to the Antarctic in January - can't wait!
Today Chef David would take us to a local market where we would sample treats, shop and be treated to the merchants who sell their products here. I use the word "treated" because they are very entertaining, shouting and smiling and offering tastes of fruit on sharp knives to passers-by. The merchants are almost more colorful than the fruit and vegetables. Everything purchased today was to be prepared for us aboard ship, in an orgy of food and wine the next day - just for our wonderful small group.
Though I can try to describe the markets, photos in this regard tell the best story. At every stop we were offered tastes of the fresh fruits.
Very ripe persimmons. Pastes of a variety of nuts - pistachio, etc.
Could this be a prickly pear? Ripe lemons that are green!
Chef David. Tiny pears grown locally and very sweet.
The best cheeses, this one with pistachios. . . . or are these prickly pears?
Dark red smooth mound is tomato paste! Sun dried cherry tomatoes
Lots and lots of fresh fish!
The cheese maker par excellence!
Our last stop was at a cheese and salumi shop. This is a particular friend of Chef David and we were ushered past the crowds near the tasting stand at the front of the shop to the inside where (can't remember his name!) told us about making the cheeses. He then brought out some buffalo mozzarella made from both buffalo and cow. It was still warm - only two hours old. He began to prepare a beautiful Italian ceramic platter filled with goodies - chunks of mozzarella, some with garlic and olive oil over the top, locally made salumi, cheese with peppercorns, and more! Then we were handed glasses of wine and the feasting began. Can't convey how wonderful everything tasted. One more cheese was brought out - Boccaccio. This is a Pecorino Romano that is finished off by leaving the cheese round in an almost empty barrel of red wine for however many days. The cheese not only develops a beautiful red wine color on the outside, but is lightly infused with the wine aroma.
But, there was more. Chef David arranged for each of us to leave with a huge wedge of the Boccaccio cheese and a whole salami (with pistachio). Each item was vacuum sealed and we were told that we should be able to take it home. So, family, prepare to sample when I get home. If they confiscate these items at customs, I may just create an international incident!!
. . . and then there was still more, We were presented with freshly made cannoli - John, where were you??? I am not a fan of these sweets, but if I could have this particular one, would probably eat them every day. Imagine a beautiful crisp shell filled with freshly made, light and not too sweet, marscapone. Yum, yum, yum!!! Will I fit in the airplane seat on the return home?
My day was not done. After a short nap in the afternoon, met Eric at the Thomas Keller grill and we enjoyed dinner with another two bottles of the Chateau du Nerthe, purchased in the Chateauneuf du Pape. That wine is simply delicious. I still have two bottles of the red that is being saved for a dinner with Eric, Sheila and Jeff on Thursday. The chef in that dining room has promised that I can have the duck once again.
This particular chef came to our table last evening and asked where I lived. When I told him he laughed, held out his hand and said he'd grown up in Napa - small world.
That's all for today, folks. Be prepared for tomorrow's food presentation. It ought to be memorable!!
Its "Once Upon a Time" begins in 734 BC, when Corinthian colonists landed on the island of Ortygia and founded the settlement, setting up the mainland city four years later.
Almost three millennia later, the ruins of that then-new city constitute the Parco Archeologico, della Neapolis, one of Sicily's greatest archaeological sites. Across the water from the mainland, Ortygia remains the city's most beautiful corner, a casually chic, eclectic marvel with an ever-growing legion of fans.
However wonderful that may be, we had other plans today, and what a day it was. Our small group met with Chef David, who is a Seabourn Executive Chef. He goes from ship to ship making certain that the Seabourn tradition is upheld and fixing it when things fall short. We learned today that he will also be on our cruise to the Antarctic in January - can't wait!
Today Chef David would take us to a local market where we would sample treats, shop and be treated to the merchants who sell their products here. I use the word "treated" because they are very entertaining, shouting and smiling and offering tastes of fruit on sharp knives to passers-by. The merchants are almost more colorful than the fruit and vegetables. Everything purchased today was to be prepared for us aboard ship, in an orgy of food and wine the next day - just for our wonderful small group.
Though I can try to describe the markets, photos in this regard tell the best story. At every stop we were offered tastes of the fresh fruits.
Chef David scrutinizing the fresh fruit!
Very ripe persimmons. Pastes of a variety of nuts - pistachio, etc.
Could this be a prickly pear? Ripe lemons that are green!
Chef David. Tiny pears grown locally and very sweet.
The best cheeses, this one with pistachios. . . . or are these prickly pears?
Dark red smooth mound is tomato paste! Sun dried cherry tomatoes
Lots and lots of fresh fish!
The cheese maker par excellence!
Our last stop was at a cheese and salumi shop. This is a particular friend of Chef David and we were ushered past the crowds near the tasting stand at the front of the shop to the inside where (can't remember his name!) told us about making the cheeses. He then brought out some buffalo mozzarella made from both buffalo and cow. It was still warm - only two hours old. He began to prepare a beautiful Italian ceramic platter filled with goodies - chunks of mozzarella, some with garlic and olive oil over the top, locally made salumi, cheese with peppercorns, and more! Then we were handed glasses of wine and the feasting began. Can't convey how wonderful everything tasted. One more cheese was brought out - Boccaccio. This is a Pecorino Romano that is finished off by leaving the cheese round in an almost empty barrel of red wine for however many days. The cheese not only develops a beautiful red wine color on the outside, but is lightly infused with the wine aroma.
But, there was more. Chef David arranged for each of us to leave with a huge wedge of the Boccaccio cheese and a whole salami (with pistachio). Each item was vacuum sealed and we were told that we should be able to take it home. So, family, prepare to sample when I get home. If they confiscate these items at customs, I may just create an international incident!!
. . . and then there was still more, We were presented with freshly made cannoli - John, where were you??? I am not a fan of these sweets, but if I could have this particular one, would probably eat them every day. Imagine a beautiful crisp shell filled with freshly made, light and not too sweet, marscapone. Yum, yum, yum!!! Will I fit in the airplane seat on the return home?
My day was not done. After a short nap in the afternoon, met Eric at the Thomas Keller grill and we enjoyed dinner with another two bottles of the Chateau du Nerthe, purchased in the Chateauneuf du Pape. That wine is simply delicious. I still have two bottles of the red that is being saved for a dinner with Eric, Sheila and Jeff on Thursday. The chef in that dining room has promised that I can have the duck once again.
This particular chef came to our table last evening and asked where I lived. When I told him he laughed, held out his hand and said he'd grown up in Napa - small world.
That's all for today, folks. Be prepared for tomorrow's food presentation. It ought to be memorable!!
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